Simplify your electronic repairs and installations with this pre-wired Spektrum IC3 Device Connector. This "pigtail" features the male-pin IC3 housing (designed for ESCs and Chargers) factory-soldered to 4 inches of high-quality silicone wire.
This is the exact component you need if you are changing the connector on an Electronic Speed Control (ESC) or making a custom Charge Lead. Instead of struggling to solder thick wires into a plastic housing, you can simply splice these pre-tinned wires to your existing device cables.
Key Features
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Pre-Wired for Speed: Comes with 4 inches of wire already professionally soldered and molded into the connector. Just splice and go.
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Device-Side Gender: This connector is the "Device" or "Male" side (exposed pins). It plugs into a battery.
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Primary Use: Replacing the plug on your ESC (Speed Controller) or building a cable to plug into your Charger.
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Smart Data Wire: Includes the Grey Data Wire for Spektrum Smart functionality.
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Note: If you are installing this on a non-Smart ESC (like a Hobbywing or Castle Creations), simply cap off or remove the grey wire. The Red and Black power wires will still function perfectly.
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13 AWG Silicone Wire: High-strand-count wire that handles the 60A continuous current rating of the IC3 connector while remaining flexible for tight wiring jobs.
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EC3 Compatible: Physically plugs into older EC3 batteries without modification.
Specifications
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Connector Type: IC3 (Device Side / Male Pins)
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Wire Gauge: 13 AWG (Red/Black) + 24 AWG (Grey Data)
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Wire Length: ~4 Inches (100mm)
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Insulation: High-Temp Silicone
Usage Scenarios
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ESC Conversion: You bought a new truck or ESC that came with a Deans/T-Plug, but all your batteries are Spektrum. Cut the old plug off the ESC and solder this on.
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Charge Lead Construction: Solder banana plugs to the bare ends of this wire to create a custom charging cable for your station.
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Parallel/Series Adapters: Use this as the "input" side when building custom Y-harnesses.
Installation Advice
Splicing Wires (ESC Side): Since you are typically soldering this to an ESC that has no power (unplugged battery), it is safer than working on a battery.
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Slide Heat Shrink onto the wires first!
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Interlace the wire strands of the ESC wire and this pigtail for a strong mechanical bond.
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Solder completely until the tin flows through the joint.
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Cover with heat shrink immediately to prevent shorting against the chassis late
